The final day: Adios to Andalucia

Andalucia: I have to admit that when I first looked at this dry, dusty landscape I felt a sense of despair. I looked at the dessicated cover without seeking the kernel of oasis that hid itself under many layers. I was being a snobby tourist--exactly the type I loathe and now I am secretly ashamed of my early quick judgements. Though the landscape is rough, craggy and difficult to traverse, the oasis is there and I think I understand it now. When we leave here tomorrow, it will be with a sense of sadness, of feeling that something is unfinished. 

I left today open on our itinerary. It was marked only "revisit favorites." We decided to give Nerja another day because of its closeness, the abundance of restaurants and shops, and its new familiarity. On the way there, I saw the exit for Frigiliana, a tiny inland town I had read about in guidebooks. "Let's go here," I asserted as we came upon the salida from the highway. Why not? It wasn't on the list of favorites as it was uncharted territory, but maybe . . .

We had planned to stop for a quick stroll and a cup of cafe con leche, then head to Nerja, but ended up staying all day. Nerja will just have to wait to be revisited.

Frigiliana is perfection. It stands steep and bleached white against the sapphire sky. Nestled in a hammock surrounded by steep peaks, the views in each direction are stunning. Each home asserts its personality by painting the door and window trim a perky shade of blue or red or lavender. Artists work at messy tables inside their neat shops. Wildly-colored pottery flows out of doorways and begs to come home.

We stopped at the tourist information booth to ask for a map and the clerk told us it had been several days since another American had come in. We felt honored. "I will tell everyone about it," I assured the tourism guy.

Steep hills require frequent stops to recharge. I took advantage and poked in every well-curated shop. We searched for a restaurant with our noses. Walking slowly uphill we finally went as far as we could climb only to find a pair of masons working on a stone pathway, their donkey bearing heavy baskets of tools. We walked past the donkey, down a shaded alley and found the most perfect view in all of Frigiliana. Why hurry? Today was not a day for tapas quickly eaten and forgotten. With a view like this it was an occasion to linger, enjoy, reflect and say a happy and sad goodbye.