L'arte in Montepulciano

The Piazza Grande, at the top of the hill in Montepulciano, is usually a pretty quiet place, with most of the tourism activity taking place nearer to the bottom of the hill.  The square is usually empty except for a few pigeons, but this week, the town is full of art. These sculptures are just so full of life and energy, Luisa and I laughed out loud, sharing in the enthusiasm. Two of the pieces were of an overtly sexual nature and we agreed it would be better not to focus on those ones as we might wet our pants giggling. You will just have to use your imagination as I did not take pix of the XXX ones.

This guy was painting the buildings surrounding the piazza with his fingers. He wasn't there when we first arrived on topof the hill, but shortly thereafter, not only was he set up, but he had a pretty good painting in the works. Amazing to see how fast he could get the image on the canvas using paint thickly spread with his hands.

There was also a temporary exhibit of works by De Chirico at the Fortezza, which runs through November.

Then Luisa had to buy ceramics, so we went to see Giovanni and she filled a shipping box with beautiful things. I managed to restrain myself.

We were still full from dinner last night when we woke up this morning so ate very lightly, but were ready to eat by the time school was over for the day. Lunch was at Aquachetta, a very popular spot in Montepulciano where they specialize in large--Fred Flintstone--cuts of meat.

On the list of specials was a coniglio ripiene, which was rabbit stuffed with a sausage made of rabbit meat and put back into the body of the rabbit before tying and roasting. It was delicious and flavored nicely with sage. My vegetable was a very good pumpkin parmigiano, which was slice pumpkin topped with some tomatoes and cheese and roasted until the cheese was browned. I never thought of trying this method with pumpkin before, but it was absolutely delicious!

One weird thing about this place is that they will only give each person one glass for both water and wine and so you must alternate between the two for the duration of the meal. Not knowing the deal, I asked for a wine glass and was refused. The waitress said that having one glass was the way they did it historically and they are maintaining the tradition. 

Return to Gattavecchi

Il Sasso has a relationship with La Cucina di Liliana at Gattavecchi cantina and the restaurant offers cooking classes to incoming language students one night per session. Luisa took the class last year and has been raving about it since, so I decided to give it a go.

Liliana is a warm general, loudly giving orders to her assistants, but following up with a smile. A busy mother of four, she runs a tight ship, expects nothing but perfection and is willing to put her entire self into everything she does. Her passion shows in her food and she is generous with her recipes, sharing all that she knows with her students.

We happily chopped zucchini, rolled pasta and peeled countless chestnuts under her tutelage and the end result was a multi course dinner that began with salumi and cheese with a glass of rosso, continued with platters of zucchini gratinata and a frittura di zucchini with their vernaccia. Next was the tagliatelle made with vino nobile topped with a simple sauce of cherry tomatoes, sage and mozzarella. Then there was the roasted pork loin topped with a chestnut cream sauce, fragrant with rosemary. We started to leave about 10, knowing that we still had a long walk to the car, then a drive home, but were beckoned back with a plate of budino di pecorino--a cheesecake made with sheep's milk cheese. Fantastic!!

Finally, a big round of hugs and thank yous, then Liliana gave each of us a signed bottle of Gattavecchi wine to enjoy later. Just a wonderful night.

Return to Gattavecchi

Il Sasso has a relationship with La Cucina di Liliana at Gattavecchi cantina and the restaurant offers cooking classes to incoming language students one night per session. Luisa took the class last year and has been raving about it since, so I decided to give it a go.

Liliana is a warm general, loudly giving orders to her assistants, but following up with a smile. A busy mother of four, she runs a tight ship, expects nothing but perfection and is willing to put her entire self into everything she does. Her passion shows in her food and she is generous with her recipes, sharing all that she knows with her students.

We happily chopped zucchini, rolled pasta and peeled countless chestnuts under her tutelage and the end result was a multi course dinner that began with salumi and cheese with a glass of rosso, continued with platters of zucchini gratinata and a frittura di zucchini with their vernaccia. Next was the tagliatelle made with vino nobile topped with a simple sauce of cherry tomatoes, sage and mozzarella. Then there was the roasted pork loin topped with a chestnut cream sauce, fragrant with rosemary. We started to leave about 10, knowing that we still had a long walk to the car, then a drive home, but were beckoned back with a plate of budino di pecorino--a cheesecake made with sheep's milk cheese. Fantastic!!

Finally, a big round of hugs and thank yous, then Liliana gave each of us a signed bottle of Gattavecchi wine to enjoy later. Just a wonderful night.

Lunch at Gattavecchi

Do I look content? I am.

I am happy to have discovered Gattavecchi Cantina last year when Linda and I were at school here the first time. It's a top-rate winery and restaurant high on the hill in Montepulciano. Joe and I were here in July for a fabulous lunch and Linda and I have been planning our return here for months. Well, the day lived up to expectations.

I had my favorite pasta--hand made with Vino Nobile--and tossed with a rich duck ragu. I had to order my salad twice because the first time it came with a bottle of olive oil I discovered (too late!) was infused with hot peppers. Mamma Mia, as they say here. We each savored our glasses of riserva 2008.

Toward the end of the meal, a large group of Russian tourists came in for a dinner and wine class. It was very interesting to hear the owner, Jonathan, talk about his wines and how to taste and enjoy them in Italian, then have the translator and group leader explain all the concepts in Russian. 

Classes are going well and our group of five: Katie, Margaret, Daniel, Alex and I are comfortable enough with each other to laugh at our mistakes--a good thing.

I spent a little time in my favorite boutique, Fatamorgana, where they always have something that appeals to my taste. The owner recognizes me now, since I have been there at least a dozen times and have bought shoes, a scarf, gifts and jewelry over the years. Today I bought myself a ring. It's a little large so I will be asking Carolyn to size it for me when I get back home.

Siamo arrivate!

So here we are again, Telma and Luisa doing what we do best: eating lunch after a morning of Italian lessons. Despite a head chock full of rules and words yet to be digested, I somehow managed to enjoy a glass of Boscarelli Vino Nobile with my lunch of millefoglie di zucchini, scamorza affumicata e funghi. It was served with a nice mixed salad and, fortunately, was served quickly because I had another session of private lessons scheduled in an hour. Wow! Talk about a full day. Sono pieno in molti cosi: la mia pancia e pieno, il mio cervello e pieno. Oppure, il mio cuore e pieno con l' amicizia di Luisa e la cordialita' della citta' di Montepulciano. La vita e' bella oggi. Penso che sara' bene domani anche.

Zuppa in Toscana

I love to make soup. It's hearty, filling, healthy and it's a food that makes you feel warm and loved. Last night when we went to the Pam market to provision the house, I told Linda I was in the mood for soup so we picked up onions, beautiful purple carrots, celery, cabbage, tomato paste, and some big cheap beef parts with a lot of fat and bone--the perfect pieces for a flavorful zuppa. 

This morning, I seared the beef, added the veggies and olive oil and let them get some color, then I added the water and tom paste and headed outside with a pair of scissors to forage for some herbs. Luckily, in the yard, there is timo, salvia, rosmarino and lauro--just what I needed. 

I let it simmer all morning while we did laundry, ate breakfast and talked. I turned off the stove when we left for a wallow at the Fonteverde Spa in San Casciano dei Bagni. When we returned, I removed the bay leaves and herb stems, chopped up the meat, which was falling off the bone, and added a handful of farfallini, tiny butterfly pasta.

Lunch was a bottle of fizzy Pignoletto, sharp, creamy blue cheese, Gaeta olives and tarralli, then a bowl of Donna's Zuppa di Radicofani. It was a good and relaxing way to begin our week in Tuscany.

Farewell par-taaaayyy!!

Well, okay, it wasn't really for us, but our favorite little tapas bar in La Herradura turned out to be the livliest party in town last night. The live music started at 9 with a very talented musician playing Spanish  guitar. It was quite sedate, very pleasant, and even emotional when he played a beautiful rendition of the Star Spangled Banner in the Spanish style.

Well, it wasn't long before the place was packed with an International crowd, all baby boomers. For his second set, the guitarist welcomed a female singer and they took off on a musical journey that spanned Lynnard Skynnard (did I spell that right?) to the Beatles, Police, and everybody started singing along with the Rolling Stones' numbers. I realized that most of these happy revelers were actually British teenagers during the British invasion. This music must be part of their soul. Several folks in the audience got up and sat in for a number or two. There was Geoff, who had the worst voice I've heard in awhile, who gave a go at "Rocky Mountain High," and there was Ken, a very reserved, white haired guy, who really went to town banging along on a wooden box. You'd think he was Charlie Watts! Really very good--just needs a real drum set. A very large British woman in her 30s asked if she could join in on Roxanne. He let her have the solo and my ears are still ringing. Oof!

In this pic, there's Ken playing the box on the right, an Pepe the waiter making his way through the crowds.

When the guitarist spotted a young couple and their baby walking down the street, he yelled for them to come in and play a couple songs. They sang two of the most beautiful Spanish ballads, with him on guitar and some friendly woman holding the baby in one arm and a wine glass in the other.

A young Dutch guy named Thijs, played his guitar for a set and was quite technically talented, but lacked the finesse and experience of the other guy.

The whole place, which easily held 80-100 people was manned by one very smooth and efficient waiter, Pepe, who didn't let a glass get dry or a plate go uncollected. What a hard worker!

There was kissing, hugging, some tears of happiness through the night. We stayed till after the third set and the crowd was still rocking.  It was our farewell party from Spain. A vibrant, memorable night made more so by the inhibitions and spirit of a bunch of regular folks just trying to relive the best moments of their youth.