Monday in Maremma

The Maremma is the area of southwest Tuscany that is mostly flat agricultural land leading down to the Mediterranean coast. Grapes, olives and fava beans were the predominant crops today, and there were countless wildflowers along the roadsides and in fields. On one long stretch of winding road we kept seeing people bending over in the grass foraging for something. Soon, we saw a woman grasping a handful of the thinnest wild asparagus. It looked dark green tinged with purple.

Later in the day we stopped for lunch in the town of Pareta and I secretly hoped the restaurant would have something on the menu with the asparagi selvatici (wild asparagus) in it--and they did. I had a piece of delicate asparagus lasagne made with homemade pasta. Joe had the maltagliati with baby artichokes and sausage--both delicious.

We visited three towns today: Scansano, Pareta and Magliano in Toscana.

Scansano is a working-class town, a little run down, but lively with lots of residents filling the lanes. There's a sidewalk that goes around the ancient walls of the town and it makes for a very nice and scenic passeggiata. The sangiovese wine made in Scansano is called Morellino di Scansano, which is a light and fruity wine, best served young. We stopped in an enoteca  and were able to taste several before choosing one to bring home.

Pareta is small, but has lovely views in each direction. Many homeowners have beautiful gardens, some with palm trees and citrus fruits as well. Being close to the coast, the climate is considerably warmer than central Tuscany and many flowers were in bloom there.

Finally, we went to Magliano, which is a gem of a village about the size of Pienza. There were many restaurants and wine bars as well as great shops for everyday living. Its position on a hill gives a stunning view over the Mediterranean and the islands off the coast of Tuscany. 

There was an antiques and artisans market today and I scored a couple of treasures:

This antique brooch has garnets and freshwater pearls set in what looks like brass. I will need Carolyn to identify it and maybe give it a polish for me.

I just thought this little English-made brooch with the hedgehog motif was adorable and unusual.