The pilgrimage

Among the many things to do in Bologna, most guide books suggest a walk up to the Sanctuario di San Luca. The sanctuary is an imposing and enduring symbol of the city and can be seen from the A1 and many other points around the area.

To get there, we started from the Piazza Maggiore, near our apartment, then walked over to the Saragozza neighborhood, through the Porta Saragozza, under the Meloncello arch, then entered the arcaded passageway that winds its way steeply uphill for about 2 km.

 In all it was a challenging hike that took us about 1:45 one way for a distance of about 5km-- even beyond the city limits. We looked at each other a few times asking if we thought we could make it all the way. We did. 

The interior of the sanctuary is decorated in the Baroque style and is quite impressive. I was disappointed by a couple of things--one, that after a 5km uphill hike there is no place at the sanctuary to buy a bottle of water. And two, the bathroom had no toilet seat, no toilet paper or paper towels. I would have happily given a donation in the offerte box if any of these things had been different, but the church got nothing from me this time. 

Rather than make the whole round trip walk we took a shuttle bus part way back to town and stopped for lunch at a great restaurant called da Cesari. I had the homemade tortellini in brodo, which was spiced with lots of nutmeg, followed by the coniglio in agrodolce--stewed rabbit with onions, olives and capers in a sweet and sour sauce. Everything was delicious and it was the best meal we've had in Bologna.

It finally happened. Ugh!

People who travel talk about and worry about this subject often. They prepare themselves by buying money belts, secret pockets to wear around their necks, even zippered compartment bras that double as safe places to stash valuables. We have never fallen victim to the crime of pick-pocketing, so have never invested in any of these or similar products. Today we are rethinking our position on this.

It finally happened to Joe. He was pick pocketed by a woman beggar who thrust her empty coin cup at him pleading her poverty, while with the other hand she removed the wallet from his pocket. She was dark-skinned, foreign and wearing a long skirt and plastic flowers in her hair, just like countless other women walking the streets of world cities. You'd think you would be able to spot them before they spot you.

We didnt realize it at first. She was a seasoned pro. When she grabbed Joe's arm, he looked to me to help him get away from her. I yelled at her "Vai, vai," and she released her grip and slunk away, but the deed had already been done.

We were heading into a concert so it was about 1.5 hours later when he realized the wallet was gone.

After we got over the initial shock, then anger, we headed back to our apartment to cancel credit cards. Luckily I have two cards with different accounts than him so at least I have some access to money. If I get over being annoyed at him perhaps I will share it.

Never a dull moment in Bologna

Barely here for 24 hours, we've already realized that Bologna is a lot like New York--a city that never sleeps!

There are performers of some sort on virtually every corner, like this guy who plays with fire to a very dramatic soundtrack.

There is live jazz (note the real baby grand, upright bass and actual drum set) at the outdoor bars, local rock bands set up on busy corners, and solitary guitarists sitting on sidewalks with their upturned hats collecting a days wage in centessimi.

Today we set out early to do the suggested walking tour of the city and were immediately stopped by a half marathon that was beginning and ending in the Piazza Maggiore, just steps from our front door. We stopped for a capuccino and enjoyed watching thousands of colorful runners pass by our table.

Nose pressed against the window at Gamberini Pasticchieria

Chocolate, pistacchio, hazelnuts and figs--all my favorite foods in one torta!!

Full of Bologna

Well, we've been here a few hours and already we see that we have to step up our game a bit as this is a bustling, international, noisy city. We have a lovely fourth floor apartment (with elevator) which overlooks red rooftops and imposing stone towers. 

We started our journey with a madcap taxi ride from the airport, zigging and zagging our way through narrow city lanes, made more for bikes than cars. Our driver couldn't quite figure out how to get us to our street as much of the center is closed to pedestrians only on weekends, so we called the caretaker and then drove to an agreed to spot where he was standing in an alley waiting to walk us the rest of the way. This is a place where you dont want to own a car!

We found the tourist office, got a map then got our bearings by taking a loop around the historic district. We found the antiques market in Santo Stefano, the University District, and stopped for a glass of wine and a platter of salumi at Tamburini, a famous food market and wine bar. 

We marveled at the Due Torre--Amazing that the smaller one doesn't topple over!

I am already loving the lively vibe, the mimes and musicians on the corners, the funky graffiti on 1,000 year old buildings, the ancientness and modernness of it all. I think this will be fun!

Tomorrow we plan to learn the city better by following the three-hour walking tour map.

We were welcomed to Bologna with American flag sheets! Lol!

My kind of town . . .

Montepulciano remains one of our favorite places in the world and today, our last in Tuscany, I insisted that we had to spend the afternoon there.

The weather was just rotten all day, but by mid afternoon we saw patches if blue and decided to make the trip. I am happy to report that not much has changed except a few new boutiques on the Corso, which is a good thing. We made the pilgrimage up to the top of the hill and high-fived each other to celebrate that we can still do it, although a bit slower each year.

We stopped at La Dolce Vita, a lovely wine bar and casual restaurant, and treated ourselves to two different glasses (each) of Vino Nobile, which were all succulent, lightly spiced and fruity.

After a couple of days in Chianti I reaffirmed today that my wine preference still lies in the terroirs of Montepulciano and Montalcino and believe that the best expression of the sangiovese grape is here in southern Tuscany.

Tonight we have a reservation at La Rocca at 9 p.m. Tomorrow morning we head to our new apartment in Bologna. A presto!

Foodie musings on Lucignano

Here, Lo Schicchero is in the left foreground, a few doors down with the two lanterns is La Tavernetta, then follow the houses down to the last yellow one--that's our place.

We have enjoyed some delicious food here in Lucignano. Though it's a small village, there are at least six good restaurants plus some pizza places, bars, etc.

So far, we have dined at La Rocca, Il Goccino, Lo Schicchero, La Tavernetta and Nice People. We have not had a chance to try L'oste Matto, La Maggiolata or Albergo Toto yet and may not as this is our last full day here. Following is a list of awards I would give each place based on our experiences this week:

Best single dish eaten this week: La Rocca, maltagliati with ricotta, roasted tomatoes and pancetta.

Most interesting menu: Il Goccino, pumpkin flowers stuffed with ricotta, mint and peas on a bed of pea ice cream. Also panzanella di polpo salad with succulent chunks of octopus in a traditional bread salad with zucchini, tomatoes and carrots.

Best bottle of wine: La Rocca, Chianti Classico from Fonterutoli.

Best restaurant name: "Nice People"

Best outdoor setting: La Tavernetta, rear terrace. Second place to Il Goccino with three tables on Via Roma.

Best server: Roberta at La Rocca who sent me some adorably enthusiastic emails to confirm my reservation.

Weirdest happening: Il Goccino, strange naked guy hanging out his window across the street, texting on his phone.